‘In January, I headed out to Bolgheri for the Anteprima tasting of the 2021 vintage, with my former colleague on the somm team here at 67 London, Nelson Pari (the pair are seen tasting below). We tasted more than 40 samples of Bolgheri Superiore, including such renowned names as Ornellaia, Guado al Tasso, Grattamacco, all blind.

‘My first impressions? The ’21 vintage is pretty remarkable. The wines generally boast a wonderfully generous ripeness and texture, while the quality of the fruit is exceptional, showcasing vibrancy but without any jammy or stewed elements. The velvety smooth texture, typical of a Bordeaux blend, is complemented by that typical, fresh Bolgheri acidity, while the concentration on most wines is equally impressive, and the tannins smooth and ripe, suggesting great ageing potential.

‘Plenty of wines stood out, but to mention just a few: Podere Grattamacco, with its freshness and balance; Caccia al Piano, offering added richness and power, but balanced by impressive elegance; and Guado al Tasso, reaffirming its status as one of the most classic Bolgheri wines but also reminiscent of the greatest Bordeaux.

‘Talking to Professor Attilio Scienza, an internationally recognised figure in Italian wine, and a specialist on Bolgheri, the importance of the individual microclimates becomes clear. Climate change has intensified the force of summer heatwaves, meaning sea breezes play an increasingly pivotal role in ensuring even ripening.

‘I’m now an expert on the four different breeze currents in Bolgheri’s hill system, and the region’s all-important high diurnal range. My ultimate takeaway, though, was the consistently high quality of the wines, which highlighted once again the exceptional nature – and typicity – of this small part of Tuscany.’