TWO MINUTES WITH | Thomas Duroux, Château Palmer
Born in Bordeaux in 1970 to a French father and Italian mother, Thomas Duroux studied as an agricultural engineer and oenologist, beginning his career in Hungary’s Tokaj. He returned to Bordeaux in 1997, managing Château Clinet in Pomerol, before joining the Mondavi family’s Languedoc adventure, and then taking over SuperTuscan Tenuta dell’Ornellaia. In 2004, he returned to his homeland to take over as CEO of Château Palmer, where he has converted the property to biodynamics and redefined its second wine as part of a reinvention of the Margaux third growth
What is your ‘last supper’ wine?
Considering wine’s rich history and the many famous bottles that have marked significant moments, I’ve always been drawn to those with a compelling story. So I would choose a Vin de Constance from a vintage that Napoleon Bonaparte enjoyed during his exile on Saint Helena. The thought of such a historic wine, appreciated by such a figure in such historic circumstances, is quite captivating.
Where is your dream vineyard?
It would definitely be on an island, and one dedicated to a unique grape variety. The Aeolian Islands, off the coast of Sicily, have always intrigued me, with their deep history of [the sweet wine] Malvasia delle Lipari. In particular, Alicudi, the most remote of the archipelago, which boasts an extraordinary volcanic plateau reaching 500 meters in altitude that was once covered in vines. Despite the fact that it is only accessible by foot, the idea of replanting this unique terroir and reviving its viticultural heritage is a dream of mine.
Who is your wine hero?
Early in my career, I had a memorable experience in the Languedoc region. While working with the Mondavi family, we were exploring the potential for a world-class vineyard in the area. It was during this time that I had the privilege of meeting Laurent Vaillé from La Grange des Pères. He welcomed us into his cellar when other growers in the region were more reserved. We developed a close friendship, and I discovered his unique approach to winemaking, full of sensitivity and emotion. Although Laurent is no longer with us, he continues to inspire me deeply in my own winemaking journey.
What’s the next big thing in wine?
New frontiers! With global climate change, new regions – most likely at higher elevations – will have the potential to produce wines with strong identities. It will be fascinating to witness this evolution.
What’s your favourite wine memory?
An incredible lunch and extended tasting in San Francisco that I shared with one of the most extravagant wine collectors I have ever encountered. As a newcomer to Château Palmer, I was offered an extraordinary blind tasting spanning the 1961, 1959, 1928, 1921, and 1869 vintages. This inspiring experience led directly to our decision to create the Historical XIXth Century Wine here at Château Palmer (pictured), celebrating the old practice of adding wines from Hermitage to the final blend of the greatest Médocs!
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67 Pall Mall London’s first Fine Wine Trends Report